Doorside 1
Non-slip stepper door
Coleman's Grand Tour series campers feature this wonderful, large step. They (used to) cover it with linoleum. I affixed stair tread anti-slip material. So far the black isn't too hot for the step in with bare feet. I no longer keep a loose piece of carpet inside; I place the Coleman rubber mat there, which catches dirt nicely and is easy to shake out periodically. I keep a tub of water adjacent to the step as a foot and shoe sole bath.

Doing this mod was prescient: beginning in 2003 Fleetwood is putting non-skid material on their stepper doors :)

Aug 03 update: I have added non-skid tape to the 3 metal edging members (sides and front) since I have slipped and fallen when either they or my soles are wet. FWIW, this pix shows the material after a year's use (probably looks harsher in the photo than in real life). The arrows indicate the edging.

Doorside 2
Screen door tie-back
Ah, bulk bungee. Tie a loop in one end to slip over the door handle, affix a hook to the other; knot it on with just enough pull to keep the door open when you need to. This accessory stows on a hook on the cabinet by the door where it's always handy.

Water Management
Gray Water Drains
(and Water Heater Wind Deflector)
Thanks to Oz & Us and others for pioneering gray water buildout using standard plumbing parts that are wide enough to provide venting and documenting the details on their websites. I drain into blue 7 gallon AquaTainer cubes. The upper drain is for the sink; I screw on an adapter and press-fit on the entire section which ends in the curved piece and a vent cap.

The bottom drain is my self-installed shower drain. The sump pump hose is adapted from 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" with couplers and ends in a test plug (hanging by parachute cord) to seal the end when stored or traveling. The main section ends in a Tee which press-fits on. The business end is U-bolted to the lip of the black trim around the bottom of the trailer.

The second pix shows the underside shower drain exiting the floor and clamped with the U-bolt. I merely drilled an angled hole to route the hose through and sealed it with silicon,clamping the hose with a U bracket. Some owner's have installed elbow fittings on either side of the floor.

The third pix shows the new (summer 03) leak proof, multi-container gray water capture system. Pioneered, of course, by Oz & Us. See his site for the details. It's very nice a) to build out to 12 gallon capcity and b) not have any leaks. Oz has ascertained that the vent is no longer required; I've since removed the large elbow/vent pieces and used a simple 90* elbow in their place.

Water Heater Wind Deflector
Note the aluminum wind deflector affixed to the water heater door's vent panel. This is purchaseable at RV stores. I used galvanized wire to hold it on.

The last pix shows an electrical conduit nut that serves as a locknut to the OEM drain, which began turning when I screwed my system onto it. Trouble was, directly inside the sidewall is a trap, and sink drainage is impeded if the trap is not oriented vertically. Ample threads remain for the male fitting on which the balance of the drain hose arrangment slips over, to screw on.

Water Management
White Water Drain
An elbow, some reinforced clear hose, a valve, and for an extra margin of water-loss-prevention safety, a cap (tethered on to prevent loss), make sliding under the trailer to empty the white water tank a thing of the past; this valve is accessible from below the vicinity of the fresh water tank fill valve on the street side of the trailer.
One day I may replace the hose with pipe but so far it seems to drain ok.

Fall 2005 pix2: that day has come.

Water Management
Fresh Water Tank Level Gauge
www.RVElectronics.com.au sells a nifty electronic water level gauge for about $35US/delivered (mid-2006). Totally self-contained (uses zero pup battery power). Just press a button on the panel and the level lamps light. 1/4 tank increments. THE way to go; don't try to build a loating bubble level. It's a very inadequate substitute.

pix to come

Water Management
Water Totes and Manual Take-on
The most sublime additional fresh water take-on solutions are either a) a Y off the camper's uptake hose to an airtight seal to the tote so the onboard pump sucks it up without the need to transfer to the onboard tank or b) an external portable pump. Otherwise, it's desirable to rig something, if possible, to minimize the amount of weight one has to heft and hold (the water in a 6 gallon tote weighs 50 lbs).

Pix 1 shows several totes. It's here to show the lanyards I use to tether the caps onto the totes so there are fewer pieces on the loose. Note also a) the 6' hose stowed around the tote handle, so this item is always available when filling a tote at a campground and b) the pink lanyard wraps around the gray water drain to keep an empty blue tote from potentially blowing away (even though the drain inserts well past bottom).

Pix 2 shows several things: a) using the camper ledge as a support for this slim tote; b) the blue funnel (with accordion flex tube) velcro'd to the camper side; c) a short run of flex hose between the tote funnel and the blue take-on funnel; d) the un-tie-able tote seal disc velcro'd to the camper side during water take-on. These aspects make filling the campers fresh water tank a mostly hands-off, non-weight-bearing, part-retaining activity. One hand is all it takes to gently keep the tote on the ledge, and emptying its 6 gallons takes less than a minute. Opening the outside cold water tap slightly seems to relieve back pressure, despite the vent tube builit into the take-on throat.
This take on scheme has been superceded by two additions:
- a kayak hand pump, which transfers water from the Aquatainer to the tank in about a minute's worth of easy pumping (no more lifting a very heavy container to the lip, no more water sloshing on shoes and making muddy ground)
- the external take on mod below.

2005: the bottom pix shows the refined water capture arrangement:
- dual sequantial sink grey tanks (courtesy OzAndUs)
- 5 gallon kerosene tank for shower grey capture; fits perfectly for the low outlet (again, thanks to Oz — especially for bringing it to me!)

Water Management
External Electrically Pumped Liquid Take-on
I finally got brave enough to cut into my underfloor Pex water lines after ascertaining that LeafPeeper's similar mod worked ok for him. The need for bravery, IMO, is that when splicing into the fresh water line one runs the risk that somewhere down the road, perhaps due to parts failure, an air leak might get introduced into the system that would interfere with the uptake of water from the tank to the pump (and hence to your faucets). I guess I’ll see how well Flair-It fittings survive winter storage. Since Fleetwood uses a Flair-It elbow at the bottom of the water tank I think that’s an encouraging sign, altho elbows and valves are different in that valves have mechanical moving parts.

Using Flair-It fittings, I cut the appropriate amount of tubing from the line between the freshwater tank leading toward the 12v water pump, and inserted this tee valve. I plumbed a new line off the vertical over to the frame skirting, where I pop-riveted a plastic conduit clamp, cushioned with some thin scrap rubber, to secure a threaded nipple. I affixed a spare plastic tether to a cap which closes off the line to keep things clean, when it's not being used.

Pix two shows a hose I made from a length of potable hose, notched at its bottom, with a female winged adapter clamped to a hose barb at the connection end. The thread is the same thread used by antifreeze kits, so I will also take on antifreeze direct from its gallon container, set conveniently on the ground outside the trailer rather than mucking around dis/connecting lines at the water pump under a dinette seat and sponging up inevitable leaks. (my rig has inadequate clearance adjacent to the pump for the brass tee antifreeze take on kits)

Having an external water take on option is very useful:
- when popping up for a single night, particularly when in transit cross country
- when running short on water on the last night of a stay somewhere.

I can reach the valve when squatting beside the trailer (I don't have to crawl on the ground) and can manipulate it by feel; it's easy since the direction the valve handle points is inline with the container from which liquid will be pulled.

Some words about Pex, the hard plastic tubing used in popup plumbing, and Flair-It fittings:
• Pex is easy to cut in place with a long sharp razor; I prefer the plastic slide out knives that offer some leverage; press and rock; don’t saw, and the cut will be easy
• when splicing Pex lines measure and measure again, being sure to remove only the length you are going to fill and no more. Dealers use metal bands for most pex connections and these require a special tool. You don’t want to have to go fixing dealer-installed lines due to a measuring mistake!
• the end of Pex lines flair out when pressed over Flair-It fittings. Be SURE to slip the Flair-It’s screw collar over the freshly cut Pex line BEFORE pressing the fitting on. Altho the fitting can easily be removed, the expansion/flair forced into the Pex line will prevent the collar from coming on or off, so it needs to be on first!
• Pex is hard and can slap under water pressure so either leave gaps between it and hard objects (floors, walls, frame) or dampen with some pipe insulation.
• using a short length of some extra Pex tubing, experiment on the workbench so you’ll have the feel for how much elbow grease it takes at different ambient temperatures to fully insert the Flair-It nipples into the Pex line. One can also heat the Pex but I’ve not done so. I did this assembly at room temperature outdoors.

Permanent Water Heater Bypass Kit
Using FlairIt fittings and a length of 3/8" pex tube I installed a permanent water heater bypass kit using 2 tee valves. Now bypassing the hot water heater requires simply turning two valves. This is useful for winterizing and is also highly useful in concert with my external takeon mod (above) in the event I want to suck up water to the cold tap from a 'Tainer on the ground withOUT filling the water heater, which the system does by default.

I needed to bend the connecting tube due to the angle at which my hot water delivery line was installed. Pex tubing can be bent after heating it and letting it cool to shape. In this case I just used pliers to gently squeeze/flatten the tube to bend it. Once it was in shape I pliered it along the sides of the bent length to re-round it. It's a bit rough on the outside but...

FlairIt's valve is a sigle side, so in this installation one valve handle is to the outside and one valve handle is to the inside.

StoveTop Extension
Ya need a place to place things when you're cooking. This modification took an unwieldy amount of time; the stove contains multiple layers of hardware, and the top must be jigsawed out (use the original small one as a tracing guide). Although a world-class fix would have utilized some lightweight plastic or a metal top, I used finished white shelving and opted to protect the edges with plastic L-shaped material, which I snipped so as to allow a complete wraparound on each corner. I chose self-stick wrap to help keep it on and finished the job with stainless steel screws. Yes, a little dirt and debris collects under the plastic but I can live with that. So far the self-stick has acted admirably as a water seal when the shelf has gotten rained on.

An alternative would be to make a separate shelf and mount it to the camper with another set of the same parts used by the manufacturer (if available).

AntiBug Screening

Refrigerator Access Panels Screening
I keep reading about how spiders can and do enter LP fittings and wreak havoc on their operation. I used a glue gun to afix window screening to the inside of each refrigerator access panel. A little care results in a fairly taut fit.
WaterHeater Door Screening
Pix 2 shows the inside of the water heater door and the 3 screens applied. Hardest to see is the top screen under the brass piece that holds the door to the heater. This is needed only if you mod the heater door tomake a bottom vent by folding the lip between the hinges up (remove the door to a workbench to do this). Here I used aluminum screen. I folded a 3/8" lip around all 4 corners. Tho not visible in this pix, the screen after edging is 2" high. The top inch is held on under the brass piece by its screws. The bottom inch is folded up by the act of closing the door, and screens off the vent gap. • Screen 2 is fiberglass glue-gunned on over the vents on the lower left. Since this is off to the side of the flame and the rising heat associated with it, the fiberglass works fine. Screen 3 is again aluminum since it's directly above the flame. I removed the OEM aluminum grid, edged the screen as described above, and folded those edges over all 4 sides of the grid. Since my door has the WindGuard on the outside (see above) I also retied it to the grid with galvanized wire that captures the screening as well.

Water Heater Door Venting

Sometimes even the bent-hinge vent isn't enough extra venting. A cheap aluminum caribiner works nicely to hook the door open several inches from the top. I cut and filed off the little hook at the end of the biner's turn since it'd get caught in the door slot. The 'biner stows around one of the LP pipes right here at the heater so it's always there.

Service Cable Mousehole Locks
I've heard about the electrical service cable snaking out en route due to the OEM mousehole snap latch failing. I mimmicked someone's initial fix, installing a wall mirror holder at the bottom of the cover. I went a step further by rigging a door-wide chain-like barrier out of stuff laying around my parts drawers.

The lock consists of longer screws with spacers between the screw heads and the cover. The screw heads are slightly larger than the spacers. This is critical as it is what secures the S hook on the left side. Using some short thin line, I affixed a 12v eyelet connector to the right side and tightened the right screw not quite all the way so the line is free to rotate. I bent the S hook to fit the task, and sized the line length to just allow the S hook to slip over the shaft.

The spacers are the parts used to make cable stops on threaded wire cables. If I recall correctly I probably added the screws for the lock to the cover, which I think comes with only the other 3 screws. Since I'd previously installed the mirror clamp I just leave it in place; otherwise it's unnecessary.

Bunk Pull
I used flat Chicago screws, whose male and female halves nest together, to attach a bunk pull strap to the king/front bunk so it's easier to pull it out — especially since I have to lean over the trunk to reach it.

Sunbrella Tent Protector Squares
I attached velcro tabs to the 4 Sunbrella squares Coleman supplies with the new camper and they live here on the roof risers, providing a bit of security against the main tenting getting caught within the riser channels (which are open on their backsides) when popping down.

Roof Lock
This is one of a pair of keyed-alike Masterlocks (the other is on the trunk). For storage it's another security measure. You'll need to buy the replacement tab from the dealer to slip into the latch; one with the loop into which you'll insert the lock — just like on a trunk lid, if you have a trunk.

Inverted Vee Level
This is one of two identical levels affixed to the front and side of the trailer. Parked on my storage lot, we see the trailer is off level ~1"; we'd need to raise one wheel that amount to level the rig left-to-right. If you use inch-high Lynx blocks the math is done. If you use a BAL leveller (see the Vehicular Goodies page) the level is a useful aid since the BAL's lift tops out at about 4.5". This level is centered below the trunk lid on the front of the trailer.

Awning Bases
Note: a year after making these weights I fashioned brackets to anchor the poles to the camper body (see the HeatingCooling page). For anyone carporting their poles, these bases could still prove useful.

As a quickly deployable alternative to lines and stakes…

These weights could succeed in holding the awning in up to moderate winds. I improved upon the cinderblock and flower pot systems by using a pair of anti-sway bar pins (tied to eyebolts so as not to lose 'em) to anchor the poles. Beefy handles are tied to the eyebolts also. Each base weighs 25lbs.

The eyebolts could also be used to anchor line to mega tent stakes, although I think I'd make a spider line that slips over the pipe and has three legs out.

You have to really want to use your awning to make the weight worth it (and don't be fooled: cargo weight adds up quicker than you think!). Another, more aesthetic, approach is to fashion bases out of barbell weights. Some guys afix eyebolts to the bottom of the poles and stake through them.

Lastly (over and out), some guys use a weight disc system like this; I made one to assist when setting up my newer awning pole schema single-handedly but you need either a larger heavier disc or very level ground for it to really work... I used a metal threaded pipe nipple with a pair of electrical conduit nuts on top and bottom of the disc; the upper pvc sections just screws in.

Tied Together Chocks
I bungeed 2 pairs of chocks together with a custom-length of bungee threaded through holes I drilled in each chock. Now the chocks are paired for better chocking and as an anti-loss measure. Despite the wonderful BAL leveler I use (see the Vehicluar Goodies page) these chocks when deployed on steep grades to help stabilize the trailer when the BAL's loosened just prior to hookup.

2002 These are superceded by the new BAL locking chock, metal chocks connected by a single toggle-style bolt. Chocking nirvana. Get one.

LP Tank Cover Tieoffs
For those with naugahyde (or watever) fabric LP tank covers: tank that ridiculous bow tie method of tying off the cinch line at the bottom of the tank(s). Instead, obtain a cord lock line closure like those used on sleeping bag stuff stacks. Run that up good and tight. Tie the ends of the line off using a simple knot. If the slack is long enough, pull the resulting loop up over the velcro tab that closes the main body of the cover around the tank, where it nicely stays put.
You may barely make out the black cylindrical cord lock down there—the cords are emerging from it.

Bart's Popup Buildouts Homepage


Doorside 1 Non-slip stepper door Coleman's Grand Tour series campers feature this wonderful, large step. They (used to) cover it with linoleum. I affixed stair tread anti-slip material. So far the black isn't too hot for the step in with bare feet. I no longer keep a loose piece of carpet inside; I place the Coleman rubber mat there, which catches dirt nicely and is easy to shake out periodically. I keep a tub of water adjacent to the step as a foot and shoe sole bath. Doing this mod was prescient: beginning in 2003 Fleetwood is putting non-skid material on their stepper doors :) Aug 03 update: I have added non-skid tape to the 3 metal edging members (sides and front) since I have slipped and fallen when either they or my soles are wet. FWIW, this pix shows the material after a year's use (probably looks harsher in the photo than in real life). The arrows indicate the edging.
Doorside 2 Screen door tie-back Ah, bulk bungee. Tie a loop in one end to slip over the door handle, affix a hook to the other; knot it on with just enough pull to keep the door open when you need to. This accessory stows on a hook on the cabinet by the door where it's always handy.
Water Management Gray Water Drains (and Water Heater Wind Deflector) Thanks to Oz & Us and others for pioneering gray water buildout using standard plumbing parts that are wide enough to provide venting and documenting the details on their websites. I drain into blue 7 gallon AquaTainer cubes. The upper drain is for the sink; I screw on an adapter and press-fit on the entire section which ends in the curved piece and a vent cap. The bottom drain is my self-installed shower drain. The sump pump hose is adapted from 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" with couplers and ends in a test plug (hanging by parachute cord) to seal the end when stored or traveling. The main section ends in a Tee which press-fits on. The business end is U-bolted to the lip of the black trim around the bottom of the trailer. The second pix shows the underside shower drain exiting the floor and clamped with the U-bolt. I merely drilled an angled hole to route the hose through and sealed it with silicon,clamping the hose with a U bracket. Some owner's have installed elbow fittings on either side of the floor. The third pix shows the new (summer 03) leak proof, multi-container gray water capture system. Pioneered, of course, by Oz & Us. See his site for the details. It's very nice a) to build out to 12 gallon capcity and b) not have any leaks. Oz has ascertained that the vent is no longer required; I've since removed the large elbow/vent pieces and used a simple 90* elbow in their place. Water Heater Wind Deflector Note the aluminum wind deflector affixed to the water heater door's vent panel. This is purchaseable at RV stores. I used galvanized wire to hold it on. The last pix shows an electrical conduit nut that serves as a locknut to the OEM drain, which began turning when I screwed my system onto it. Trouble was, directly inside the sidewall is a trap, and sink drainage is impeded if the trap is not oriented vertically. Ample threads remain for the male fitting on which the balance of the drain hose arrangment slips over, to screw on.
Water Management White Water Drain An elbow, some reinforced clear hose, a valve, and for an extra margin of water-loss-prevention safety, a cap (tethered on to prevent loss), make sliding under the trailer to empty the white water tank a thing of the past; this valve is accessible from below the vicinity of the fresh water tank fill valve on the street side of the trailer. One day I may replace the hose with pipe but so far it seems to drain ok. Fall 2005 pix2: that day has come.
Water Management Fresh Water Tank Level Gauge www.RVElectronics.com.au sells a nifty electronic water level gauge for about $35US/delivered (mid-2006). Totally self-contained (uses zero pup battery power). Just press a button on the panel and the level lamps light. 1/4 tank increments. THE way to go; don't try to build a loating bubble level. It's a very inadequate substitute.	pix to come
Water Management Water Totes and Manual Take-on The most sublime additional fresh water take-on solutions are either a) a Y off the camper's uptake hose to an airtight seal to the tote so the onboard pump sucks it up without the need to transfer to the onboard tank or b) an external portable pump. Otherwise, it's desirable to rig something, if possible, to minimize the amount of weight one has to heft and hold (the water in a 6 gallon tote weighs 50 lbs). Pix 1 shows several totes. It's here to show the lanyards I use to tether the caps onto the totes so there are fewer pieces on the loose. Note also a) the 6' hose stowed around the tote handle, so this item is always available when filling a tote at a campground and b) the pink lanyard wraps around the gray water drain to keep an empty blue tote from potentially blowing away (even though the drain inserts well past bottom). Pix 2 shows several things: a) using the camper ledge as a support for this slim tote; b) the blue funnel (with accordion flex tube) velcro'd to the camper side; c) a short run of flex hose between the tote funnel and the blue take-on funnel; d) the un-tie-able tote seal disc velcro'd to the camper side during water take-on. These aspects make filling the campers fresh water tank a mostly hands-off, non-weight-bearing, part-retaining activity. One hand is all it takes to gently keep the tote on the ledge, and emptying its 6 gallons takes less than a minute. Opening the outside cold water tap slightly seems to relieve back pressure, despite the vent tube builit into the take-on throat. This take on scheme has been superceded by two additions: - a kayak hand pump, which transfers water from the Aquatainer to the tank in about a minute's worth of easy pumping (no more lifting a very heavy container to the lip, no more water sloshing on shoes and making muddy ground) - the external take on mod below. 2005: the bottom pix shows the refined water capture arrangement: - dual sequantial sink grey tanks (courtesy OzAndUs) - 5 gallon kerosene tank for shower grey capture; fits perfectly for the low outlet (again, thanks to Oz — especially for bringing it to me!)
Water Management External Electrically Pumped Liquid Take-on I finally got brave enough to cut into my underfloor Pex water lines after ascertaining that LeafPeeper's similar mod worked ok for him. The need for bravery, IMO, is that when splicing into the fresh water line one runs the risk that somewhere down the road, perhaps due to parts failure, an air leak might get introduced into the system that would interfere with the uptake of water from the tank to the pump (and hence to your faucets). I guess I’ll see how well Flair-It fittings survive winter storage. Since Fleetwood uses a Flair-It elbow at the bottom of the water tank I think that’s an encouraging sign, altho elbows and valves are different in that valves have mechanical moving parts. Using Flair-It fittings, I cut the appropriate amount of tubing from the line between the freshwater tank leading toward the 12v water pump, and inserted this tee valve. I plumbed a new line off the vertical over to the frame skirting, where I pop-riveted a plastic conduit clamp, cushioned with some thin scrap rubber, to secure a threaded nipple. I affixed a spare plastic tether to a cap which closes off the line to keep things clean, when it's not being used. Pix two shows a hose I made from a length of potable hose, notched at its bottom, with a female winged adapter clamped to a hose barb at the connection end. The thread is the same thread used by antifreeze kits, so I will also take on antifreeze direct from its gallon container, set conveniently on the ground outside the trailer rather than mucking around dis/connecting lines at the water pump under a dinette seat and sponging up inevitable leaks. (my rig has inadequate clearance adjacent to the pump for the brass tee antifreeze take on kits) Having an external water take on option is very useful: - when popping up for a single night, particularly when in transit cross country - when running short on water on the last night of a stay somewhere. I can reach the valve when squatting beside the trailer (I don't have to crawl on the ground) and can manipulate it by feel; it's easy since the direction the valve handle points is inline with the container from which liquid will be pulled. Some words about Pex, the hard plastic tubing used in popup plumbing, and Flair-It fittings: • Pex is easy to cut in place with a long sharp razor; I prefer the plastic slide out knives that offer some leverage; press and rock; don’t saw, and the cut will be easy • when splicing Pex lines measure and measure again, being sure to remove only the length you are going to fill and no more. Dealers use metal bands for most pex connections and these require a special tool. You don’t want to have to go fixing dealer-installed lines due to a measuring mistake! • the end of Pex lines flair out when pressed over Flair-It fittings. Be SURE to slip the Flair-It’s screw collar over the freshly cut Pex line BEFORE pressing the fitting on. Altho the fitting can easily be removed, the expansion/flair forced into the Pex line will prevent the collar from coming on or off, so it needs to be on first! • Pex is hard and can slap under water pressure so either leave gaps between it and hard objects (floors, walls, frame) or dampen with some pipe insulation. • using a short length of some extra Pex tubing, experiment on the workbench so you’ll have the feel for how much elbow grease it takes at different ambient temperatures to fully insert the Flair-It nipples into the Pex line. One can also heat the Pex but I’ve not done so. I did this assembly at room temperature outdoors.
Permanent Water Heater Bypass Kit Using FlairIt fittings and a length of 3/8" pex tube I installed a permanent water heater bypass kit using 2 tee valves. Now bypassing the hot water heater requires simply turning two valves. This is useful for winterizing and is also highly useful in concert with my external takeon mod (above) in the event I want to suck up water to the cold tap from a 'Tainer on the ground withOUT filling the water heater, which the system does by default. I needed to bend the connecting tube due to the angle at which my hot water delivery line was installed. Pex tubing can be bent after heating it and letting it cool to shape. In this case I just used pliers to gently squeeze/flatten the tube to bend it. Once it was in shape I pliered it along the sides of the bent length to re-round it. It's a bit rough on the outside but... FlairIt's valve is a sigle side, so in this installation one valve handle is to the outside and one valve handle is to the inside.
StoveTop Extension Ya need a place to place things when you're cooking. This modification took an unwieldy amount of time; the stove contains multiple layers of hardware, and the top must be jigsawed out (use the original small one as a tracing guide). Although a world-class fix would have utilized some lightweight plastic or a metal top, I used finished white shelving and opted to protect the edges with plastic L-shaped material, which I snipped so as to allow a complete wraparound on each corner. I chose self-stick wrap to help keep it on and finished the job with stainless steel screws. Yes, a little dirt and debris collects under the plastic but I can live with that. So far the self-stick has acted admirably as a water seal when the shelf has gotten rained on. An alternative would be to make a separate shelf and mount it to the camper with another set of the same parts used by the manufacturer (if available).
AntiBug Screening Refrigerator Access Panels Screening I keep reading about how spiders can and do enter LP fittings and wreak havoc on their operation. I used a glue gun to afix window screening to the inside of each refrigerator access panel. A little care results in a fairly taut fit. WaterHeater Door Screening Pix 2 shows the inside of the water heater door and the 3 screens applied. Hardest to see is the top screen under the brass piece that holds the door to the heater. This is needed only if you mod the heater door tomake a bottom vent by folding the lip between the hinges up (remove the door to a workbench to do this). Here I used aluminum screen. I folded a 3/8" lip around all 4 corners. Tho not visible in this pix, the screen after edging is 2" high. The top inch is held on under the brass piece by its screws. The bottom inch is folded up by the act of closing the door, and screens off the vent gap. • Screen 2 is fiberglass glue-gunned on over the vents on the lower left. Since this is off to the side of the flame and the rising heat associated with it, the fiberglass works fine. Screen 3 is again aluminum since it's directly above the flame. I removed the OEM aluminum grid, edged the screen as described above, and folded those edges over all 4 sides of the grid. Since my door has the WindGuard on the outside (see above) I also retied it to the grid with galvanized wire that captures the screening as well. Water Heater Door Venting Sometimes even the bent-hinge vent isn't enough extra venting. A cheap aluminum caribiner works nicely to hook the door open several inches from the top. I cut and filed off the little hook at the end of the biner's turn since it'd get caught in the door slot. The 'biner stows around one of the LP pipes right here at the heater so it's always there.
Service Cable Mousehole Locks I've heard about the electrical service cable snaking out en route due to the OEM mousehole snap latch failing. I mimmicked someone's initial fix, installing a wall mirror holder at the bottom of the cover. I went a step further by rigging a door-wide chain-like barrier out of stuff laying around my parts drawers. The lock consists of longer screws with spacers between the screw heads and the cover. The screw heads are slightly larger than the spacers. This is critical as it is what secures the S hook on the left side. Using some short thin line, I affixed a 12v eyelet connector to the right side and tightened the right screw not quite all the way so the line is free to rotate. I bent the S hook to fit the task, and sized the line length to just allow the S hook to slip over the shaft. The spacers are the parts used to make cable stops on threaded wire cables. If I recall correctly I probably added the screws for the lock to the cover, which I think comes with only the other 3 screws. Since I'd previously installed the mirror clamp I just leave it in place; otherwise it's unnecessary.
Bunk Pull I used flat Chicago screws, whose male and female halves nest together, to attach a bunk pull strap to the king/front bunk so it's easier to pull it out — especially since I have to lean over the trunk to reach it.
Sunbrella Tent Protector Squares I attached velcro tabs to the 4 Sunbrella squares Coleman supplies with the new camper and they live here on the roof risers, providing a bit of security against the main tenting getting caught within the riser channels (which are open on their backsides) when popping down.
Roof Lock This is one of a pair of keyed-alike Masterlocks (the other is on the trunk). For storage it's another security measure. You'll need to buy the replacement tab from the dealer to slip into the latch; one with the loop into which you'll insert the lock — just like on a trunk lid, if you have a trunk.
Inverted Vee Level This is one of two identical levels affixed to the front and side of the trailer. Parked on my storage lot, we see the trailer is off level ~1"; we'd need to raise one wheel that amount to level the rig left-to-right. If you use inch-high Lynx blocks the math is done. If you use a BAL leveller (see the Vehicular Goodies page) the level is a useful aid since the BAL's lift tops out at about 4.5". This level is centered below the trunk lid on the front of the trailer.
Awning Bases Note: a year after making these weights I fashioned brackets to anchor the poles to the camper body (see the HeatingCooling page). For anyone carporting their poles, these bases could still prove useful. As a quickly deployable alternative to lines and stakes… These weights could succeed in holding the awning in up to moderate winds. I improved upon the cinderblock and flower pot systems by using a pair of anti-sway bar pins (tied to eyebolts so as not to lose 'em) to anchor the poles. Beefy handles are tied to the eyebolts also. Each base weighs 25lbs. The eyebolts could also be used to anchor line to mega tent stakes, although I think I'd make a spider line that slips over the pipe and has three legs out. You have to really want to use your awning to make the weight worth it (and don't be fooled: cargo weight adds up quicker than you think!). Another, more aesthetic, approach is to fashion bases out of barbell weights. Some guys afix eyebolts to the bottom of the poles and stake through them. Lastly (over and out), some guys use a weight disc system like this; I made one to assist when setting up my newer awning pole schema single-handedly but you need either a larger heavier disc or very level ground for it to really work... I used a metal threaded pipe nipple with a pair of electrical conduit nuts on top and bottom of the disc; the upper pvc sections just screws in.
Tied Together Chocks I bungeed 2 pairs of chocks together with a custom-length of bungee threaded through holes I drilled in each chock. Now the chocks are paired for better chocking and as an anti-loss measure. Despite the wonderful BAL leveler I use (see the Vehicluar Goodies page) these chocks when deployed on steep grades to help stabilize the trailer when the BAL's loosened just prior to hookup. 2002 These are superceded by the new BAL locking chock, metal chocks connected by a single toggle-style bolt. Chocking nirvana. Get one.
LP Tank Cover Tieoffs For those with naugahyde (or watever) fabric LP tank covers: tank that ridiculous bow tie method of tying off the cinch line at the bottom of the tank(s). Instead, obtain a cord lock line closure like those used on sleeping bag stuff stacks. Run that up good and tight. Tie the ends of the line off using a simple knot. If the slack is long enough, pull the resulting loop up over the velcro tab that closes the main body of the cover around the tank, where it nicely stays put. You may barely make out the black cylindrical cord lock down there—the cords are emerging from it.