Refrigerator Vent Fan and Baffle This fan has a built-in thermostat. When the temperature in the exterior refrig compartment gets too hot the fan turns on to vent the hot air, thus improving refrigerator performance.I pigtailed off the existing 12v leads servicing the refrigerator. The wood piece is intended by Coleman to act as a baffle to help vent the unit; apparently it can be much improved upon (see Conductor's vent fan page for the ultimate adjustment. I used it as an anchorage for the fan switch. I've since added a one-piece aluminum baffle to the uper compartment. Pix 2 shows the installation. The baffle is screwed atop the original wooden one, with one additional screw through the vertical tab on the left side. The black marks are my marker bending guides which I've since removed with solvent.
Water Heater Reignitor A water heater reignitor does two things: - emit a constant string of spark should the pilot flame go out due to wind or airflow issues, reigniting the heater - provide the spark for lighting the heater, making this task easier than when juggling the gas control with one hand and a 3 button electric lighter with the other. The device also emits an audible clicking when operating, so if a gas tank runs dry, and you're around the site, you can a) hear it and switch tanks (assuming no auto switch) and b) shut things off so as not to drain the battery inadvertently. I came across this Suburban install kit online and it is the correct part for my model heater, with the exception of the electrode, the part that actually emits the spark, which I had to obtain to fit this heater's layout. Pix 1 shows the ignitor on/off switchbox mounted and the heater's pilot hood assembly removed, after first removing the burner (the brass tube in pix2), a simple 2-nut process. Contrary to the instruction sheet, it was easiest to access the hood, to which the electrode gets attached, by removing an aluminum cover and unbolting the bolts holding the assembly in the "tunnel" than to try to remove various nuts coupling the lines under the gas control unit. [So now I know how the heater works: the burner flame simply heats this steel "tunnel", recessed inside the heater tank which in turn heats the water.] Pix 2 shows the electrode attached to the pilot hood. You remove one of the two bolts holding the pilot hood to the U-shaped bracket hanging from the little 'shelf' and slip the electrode mount under it. This bolt was *tight*, so I used Loctite on it. Pix 3 shows the completed installation with cover back in place and the 3 wires shrouded in solid (no split) loom. The switchbox rides on special nylon fasteners; you drill a pair of holes where marked by dimples already in the panel for this purpose. These special fasteners mount the box in free space away from the panel surface, I surmise to minimize noise and prevent the metal from acting as a sounding board. I wanted to poprivet and use rubber washers for bushings but there's no clearance for the rivet tool's nozzle against the switchbody. Let's hope this nylon is durable. I used my own rubber grommet for the power lead which runs behind the heater panel into the Cheyenne's trunk, through the floor adjacent to the LP gas line feeding the heater, where I tapped into power in the tongue vicinity. The electrode is premade with the right configuration to position its tip between the bottom, forked element and the straight element. The tip needs to center in this area between 1/8" and 3/16" from the ends of these elements.I don't know how this appliance works, and the user documentation does not describe all these parts in detail, so I don't know what these two elements actually do together.
Backup and Flasher Lights The 55 watt backup light set is a pair of inexpensive driving lamps. I have other utility lamps; these are only for backing into campsites at night. While I was at it I attached a bicycle flasher; it was ready at hand and can serve as a roadside safety alert, if only marginally, should I ever have to leave the trailer on the roadside at night. It's bolted on using an existing bumper bolt that attaches the bumper to the frame extension. Backup Lights Wiring Thanks to Geotex, a PupUPTimes forum member, for sharing a circuit with me, the lamps run off the tow vehicle's battery (conservatively, I did not want to allow the risk of accidentally running the trailer's 12v batteries down). The system functions in two ways: either on when the tow vehicle is put in reverse, or on when the running lights are on (no ignition required). This behavior depends upon the position of a two way toggle switch, and the circuit is protected by a relay and fuse. All wiring was run through the frame, pulled through in several stages via a snake. This is as close to a factory job as one can get — and you get 110 watts of halogen lighting back there. (PopUPTImes form member Bluesman has taken another approach: remove the rear panel and install new backup lenses and lamps, replacing the existing brake lamp assembly—a beautiful mod). Pix 1: the threee leads going to the Bargeman plug are contained within a run of expandable sleeve, making sort of a second harness, which I've braided together with the factory harness. Despite very tight fits at both ends I was able to worm the sleeve into the plug's throat and the harness entry at the frame. I also built a three-lead (ground, power, running) Bargeman extension in case I want to use the lamps after unhitching the trailer so I don't have to move the tow vehicle again. Pix 2 and 3: the relay and fuse are in a plastic electrical box affixed to the inside of the trunk above and behind the water heater, out of the way. The wires run through the wall into the undersink cabinet and through the floor (I used clear plastic tubing in the cabinet as a wire conduit to protect the wires from abuse; this cabinet is in active storage/stowage use). The box is affixed with tee-nuts to minimize protrusion into the cabinet; were I to do it again I'd use molly bolts, cut 'em off and use cap nuts. I chose the trunk for easiest assembly and maintenance access even though it meant an extra hole and short run detour. Pix 4: the military-grade waterproof toggle is mounted through the frame skirting to a plastic electrical box affixed behind the skirting at the forward streetside corner. I fashioned waterproofing using carefully positioned, nested clear tubes and silicon sealant. The box lid includes a gasket. Pix 5: the toggle is nicely positioned and protected just under the overhanging lip of the trailer's trunk. The box is held on with a screw or bolt front and side, so it won't come off in the event switch maintenance is required.
Interior 12v outlets and Switch Cover It's handy to have outlets mounted in accessible locations (unlike the single Coleman interior 12v outlet mounted on a dinette bench facing but all the way at the side of the camper; this is neatly out of the way if you're running an appliance to leave on the table but practically useless for temporary plug-ins). The first picture shows a 12v outlet I added at the aisle side of the dinette bench. I tapped into the hot/ground leads servicing the LP gas detector, located on inside the bench.(This picture also shows a door I added to the underseat stowage area (removed from the door-side cabinet when I enlarged that opening and made a bigger door for the big porta-potti.) The second picture shows two items on the front wall below the forward bunk: a 12v outlet I installed adjacent to, and tapping into, the trunk light switch, and a switch protector — my knee kept on flipping the trunk light on when I leaned over the bunk, which is in heavy other-than-sleep use since it's adjacent to the galley. In a short section of wide clear flexible plastic tube I cut a rectangle (to clear the toggle switch) and access holes for screws and screwdriver which use the same mounting holes as the faceplate does. I used slightly fatter replacement screws. Pix 3 shows an outlet atop the small doorside cabinet adjacent to the sofa, tapping into the outside patio light leads after cutting a 1.5" hole in the interior wall inside the cabinet. When campted my CD/radio lives there and the cord doesn't even have to be un- or rewound. This little counter is also an ideal place for the 12v 12" Fantastic fan. Adding these outlets are among the easiest mods you can make, except for access to the trunk light switch wires (which in my case were cut very short by the factory, but dexterity prevailed and I was _just_ able to add the connectors to wire up the outlet; working under the dinette benches is a wide-open endeavor). Anyway, I've installed 4 such outlets around the camper, tapping into existing leads.
Water Pump Switch Idiot Light Unless and until I move the water pump switch off the top of the galley, between the sink cabinet and the bunk, I can't easily see it to know if it's on or off. Since my WhisperKing water pump is _so_ quiet I may not know if it's inadvertently running (they can under certain conditions even if all faucets are tightly closed). This pix shows an 11mA LED inserted into the face of the lower galley cabinet. I ran its hot lead to the cold side of the switch and grounded it to the frame, running that lead through the floor and tapping the ground I'd installed directly below this location for my backup light system since no ground was otherwise available in the cabinet. I will probably move the switch directly below this LED. Since the pump switch can be on for days at a time I wanted a very low draw lamp, hence the LED rather than a lighted switch.
Task Lighting Why-oh-why do we need to add adequate task lighting? These are RVs, not tents! Reading Light Pix one shows yet another 12v outlet I added on the galley side of a dinette bench (this makes outlet #3 inside). Ordinary lamps can become 12v-compliant by simple using a 12v bulb. The trick is then to obtain a 12v male cord end. I covered all the bases by using a 3-way extentsion cord and whipping up two 12v pigtails for it: one cigarette lighter style and one 1/4" phono plug style, the whole schmear all together in one assembly (thanks, Conductor, for the basic impetus for this!). The lamp plugs into one socket, which ends in the cigarette style plug. The phono style plug is affixed to the cut-off other end of the x-cord, which plugs into another socket. I'll plug socket 3 with a babyproof cover. Pix two shows the business end: a reading lamp clipped to the galley handle (moveable, of course, to other locations), where it tightly illuminates reading matter when reclining on the dinette bench (with my feet propped up on the slightly-pulled-out-goucho sofa) — hence I can get adequate illumination from a 50w bulb. When at hookup sites I'll swap out the 12v bulb with a normal 110v bulb (a 65w halogen), stow the two-way pigtail, and plug into shore power outlets (and there oughta be one of those on the galley side of that dinette bench also; jeesh!). Since this outlet is closest to the galley and stovetop, this is also where I plug in the 12v pizza (toast) oven when that's in use. Galley and Dinette Lights Pix three and four show a pair of flourescent task lights suspended from the ceiling via pairs of 2" velcro dots (thanks again MtnCamper). Pix three is the gally fixture between the door storage rails. Pix four's fixture parallels the dinette table. The galley fixture is a cheapo $18 JCWhitney buy on which I had to swap out their tiny gauge leads with real wiring. Its 3-way switch is an assemblage of collars on posts and a slide w/two conductors. Who knows if this thing will survive road vibration? I have figured out how to maniuplate the slide to make contact in both positions (it's a bit springy). Because this fixure has no ballast I can turn it on/off with impunity regarding battery drain. The dinette fixture is a ThinLite and is ballasted. It's over the dinette since the likelihood of having it on for an extended time is greater in that zone. In fact, it's mandated so as not to prematurely draw down the battery due to ballast surge (my uninformed term). Pix five shows the wiring scheme hidden behind the valance. I've tapped into the OEM indoor wiring leads that run behind the valance track and then under each of two stuck-on vinyl covers to the factory-installed roof-mounted lighting fixures. As shown, these leads are exposed for several inches at the gaps between the valance track and roof track. Many thanks to GeotexZ71 who steered me towards the tee fittings. These function just like typical press-on splices except they end in 1/4" female spade ends. I made pigtails with a male spade plug on one end and a Molex plug on the other. The fixture leads end in a mating Molex plug. Thus the fixtures can be re/moved or swapped out at any time. The tees will remain with the trailer available for use if desired or protected from errant contact if not. Exterior Streetside Light Mr. Snide says there's nothing like working in the dark and having no outlets into which to plug a light (or a tire pump). Fix that with this 12v bank, shown with an automobile reading lamp I happened to have, which throws a good amount of light around the streetside of the camper. I stow the light right there, held down with a velcro strip and with the lens cradled in a custom-cut pipe clamp foam piece. The bank has an idiot (ok, status) lamp to aid in making sure it's switched off. I also plug in my 12v tire pump here, and also made an adapter so I can plug it into the curbside jack at the patio lamp...now I no longer have to run piggybacked 12v extension cords around or position my tow vehicle to air up the camper tires in the field.
Patio Light Dual LEDs I'm intent on minimizing battery drain caused by lighting andhave installed the first ot two identical 4-bulb LED clusters into my patio light fixture. Here are two pix of the first phase of this project. Pix one shows the wiring. I soldered flatblade male connectors onto the LED leads and used nifty 3M T-tap connectors (the little yellow pieces that look like whistles) to make an inline connection point (a female blade recepticle). These are the same type of connectors I used on my flourescent light installation (below). I did not want to cut the main trailer leads servicing this fixture, which come through the sidewall, nor undo the OEM connections, so I worked with the fixture hanging off the side of the trailer. The bottom pix shows a completed install with one T-tap hidden behind the panel covering all electronics and the other exposed. This because the lead it connects to has little if any slack, and directly above this area is the accessory plug recepticle. It's not visible behind the lens anyway. As you can see, I can remove or replace the OEM incandescent bulb at will. For night cooking or other tasks, in goes the bulb. For finding my way back to the trailer along a dark lakeshore, the LED will suffice as a "phone home" light. When adding the 2nd cluster I pigtailed both sets of leads into single blades per side so the existing two T-taps will suffice. The beauty of this is of course that the single switch controls both the socket and LED clusters simultaneously. For me it's more attractive to mange this light fixture by plugging in the incandscent bulb only when I want it rather than trying to engineer in a second switch, mechanically and electrically. Since one screw was not tight I replaced all four with larger screws and added reflective foil to help spread more light. Reflectix tape would be neater bt I didn't have any at the installation time. Another optoin would be to cut up my Vanity Mate's original junky plastic miorror which I've replaced with real glass.
TongueZone Light This addition is the first of two Bargman model 78 switched porch lights I'm adding. I put an amber lens on but have a clear in case I want more light. The projected use is whenever one must muck around under the bunk with LP or battery issues, or perhaps briefly on the road in the tongue zone after dark. I obtained some thin foam and cut a backing, slightly larger than the Bargman, to help seal the ABS. I moved the light's leads into the case and added a female connector to each. I ran leads in the deep void behind the ABS panel and through holes drilled in the ABS and the fixture's metal backing plate (using silicon on all ABS holes and a rubber grommet through the plate hole). I put male connectors on each lead and plugged them all together; this allows for future maintence if any. Grounds to the frame directly; there are several screws already there. I had a little bit of exposed power lead from my backup lamp installation so I ran this fixture’s loomed lead to that and clipped to it. I inserted a fuse inline; this to protect in the event water intrusion were to cause a short (neither the fixture or its switch is waterproof, tho a learned friend who's used this same fixture in the tongue zone for years reports no problem). It’s popriveted on with molly-style poprivets. The second fixture will use a clear lens and go streetside to illuminate the water heater and refrig zone. Of additional interest in this pix may be: - the letters "Rocks" behind the trunk lid; this to remind me to check the cavity behind the lid hinge so avoid a repetition of opening the lid with a rock behind it, resulting in a thumbnail sized hold in the ABS… - split loom on all LP tube runs - a partial close up of my custom-made aluminum battery box lock - minor customizations to the dual LP tank anchorage: a cotter pin up top to lock in the hardware (the tanks are cable locked to the baseplate); clear tubing on the big wing nut for easy turning; nuts locked ~1/3 way down the shaft to prevent the loosed wing from falling too far down.
Digital Thermostat and On/Off Switch This simple digital thermostat has the advantage of just fitting inside the plastic recess Coleman uses for their mechanical model (the cover hinges on the left side to come off for battery access. Of course the real advantage is that it actually functions accurately, with no operational gaps at any temperature setting. It's a Lux 100 series model; ~$23 at Home Depot. It is _not_ backlit, hence the addition of a tethered little LED flashlight to see what I'm doing in the wee hours. The thermostat's been moved over from way under the dinette bench to the outermost edge where it's easy to reach and set. The old void is covered with piece of bench wall cut from scrap left over from cutting a bench-end access door hole, glued in with Tite-Bond wood glue. The 2nd pix shows a new on/off switch conveniently located above the furnace, next to the refrigerator, on the face of the lower galley (thanks, MtnCamper!). The thermostat's switch stays on all the time; you operate the unit from the galley switch. I opted for an unlighted press-fit rocker switch (I don't like extra light at night).

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